How to Get to Mt. Palgongsan and the Never-Ending Stairs Challenge


The best part about discovering a new place is the feeling of breathlessness that comes from seeing something spectacular. I’m usually drawn to crazy, out of this world, possibly supernatural attractions, like Stonehenge (the grandiosity blows me away) or bioluminescent bays (it’s like swimming with fireflies!).

Inscence

When I was invited to climb Mt. Palgongsan to Gatbawi this past week, I honestly didn’t do enough research to know what to expect. I suppose I imagined hiking through a forest, or to see some South Korean mountains…

me3

That right there is the face of pure oblivion.

Even as we got there and began the trek, I was completely unprepared. To be honest, 10 minutes in I was DONE. I carried way too much weight in my backpack, and the steep paths were not making me a happy camper. We stopped a few times to relax, snap pictures, and take in the slow stream of water flowing down the edge of the hill. Still, most of us huffed and puffed the entire way up. We stopped at one particular statue of a Buddha surrounded by mini Buddhas, and what I can only assume to be offerings. We looked, and we pondered, and then looked some more.

NeyshaBuddah

And then, something amazing happened…

Out from the temple appeared a small woman with a shaved head. She wore thin rimmed glasses, and a huge smile that encompassed her entire face.

Monk1

She greeted us, and with the warmth of her heart invited us to have Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving) lunch with her. Now, I’ve heard since this day that this may be common practice in Buddhist temples, but the action does not cease to humble me. We must have looked quite out of place as she brought us in to the Temple to greet Buddha, or in other words, show us how to pray.

Monk3

Picture this: a group of 15 foreigners, all from different places and backgrounds, shoes off, sweating like pigs, paying respects to this great statue. We placed our pillows below our knees, and took three hearty bows, trying to keep up with this bullet of a woman who giggled with us the entire way through.

Quickly thereafter, she ushered us out to the next room where we were fed Bibimbap, a signature Korean dish consisting of white rice, seasoned vegetables, and chili paste. She told us stories of her days studying Buddhism in the United States, and her calling to return to her native Korea and continue her practice. She urged us to finish the entirety of our plates, as there are too many starving souls in this world and it’s a Buddhist custom to finish all you are served. I can assure you we were all close to tears from the generosity we experienced.

MonkEating

Today, I can tell the story of how I dined with a Buddhist Monk, and I love to tell it! She gave us beads, showed us how to bless them, and sent us on our way with full stomachs and happy hearts.

…Until we realized another 10 minutes later how full we really were, and yet we had to keep on climbing.

If you decide to take the never ending stairs challenge on your way to Gatbawi:

  • Be prepared with lots of water and possibly a hiking stick, because you are about to climb 850-metres (2,790 ft) straight up into the sky.
  • Along the way you’ll see Wonhyosa Temple, Cheonseongsa Temple and Bulguksa Temple as you make your way to the top. Each area has its own charm, and it’s definitely worth stopping to take a picture and even a little rest.
  • Fountains flowing with fresh, drinkable water are scattered throughout the area to help keep you cool and hydrated, so take advantage.
  • Prepare to be wowed by the view, but definitely don’t take pictures of anyone selling food or any of the monks in the surrounding area; they don’t like it, learn from my mistakes!

Once you reach the top, you will see Gatbawi Buddha, resting 13+ ft above your head, wearing a 15-cm think stone Korean hat. The most picturesque part of this journey was experiencing the rituals so many Korean hikers climb this mountain to perform. They say that if you ask, Gatbawi helps makes one wish come true. You can only ask one thing of him, though, so be sure it’s truly something you’ve thought about and desire.

Buddah2

If you look up you’ll see a beautiful lantern display, helping to shade those bowing and praying. The lanterns are used as decoration depending on the time of year, and you’ll often see the colors change if you are a frequent visitor.

Lanterns
The best part is that getting there is SO easy.

If you’re coming from Seoul:

  • Take the bus from Dong Seoul Terminal to Daegu, then hop on another bus to Hayang, and a third bus (it should be No. 311) to Gatbawi Park.

If you’re already in Daegu:

  • Take the subway (Red, line 1, towards Ansim) to Ayanggyo.

  • Go right outside and find bus No. 1 (Dongdaegu-Gatbawi) all the way to the end!

Have you ever climbed up Mt. Palgongsan? Am I just truly out of shape? Tell the truth! What is your favorite mountain to climb?

 

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8 Comments

  1. […] that cuts through the park for a good 16.3km, and then you’ll have to climb what I like the call the never-ending stairs challenge until you make it to the top. Then, you’ll need to hike all the ways back down steep stairs and […]

  2. […] something I had a firm grip on. Then I moved to South Korea and I realized just how wrong I was. Climbing Mt. Palgongsan towards Gatbawi Buddha in Daegu is no easy feat. I call it ‘the never ending stares challenge’ […]

  3. Ben Beall
    April 12, 2015
    Reply

    Hello, I live in Douglasville, Ga., and I was in the U.S. Air Force stationed in South Korea in 1969. We had a temporary duty assignment to pour concrete pads at a radar installation on Palgongsan. I’m grateful I did not have to climb it, but the view was spectacular. I got some good photos. I always found the South Korean people to be very respectful, kind, and generous. Since we were pouring concrete pads, we had to have gravel, and we hauled it up the mountain in 5 ton dumptrucks. Occasionally when we would come to a stop on the way up, shifting to a lower gear, the front wheels of the truck would come off the ground. That was a scary feeling on that steep grade. All in all it was a great experience, and I would like to go back and visit. Such a beautiful country and people.

    • May 29, 2015
      Reply

      Ben, I can’t tell you how happy your comment has made me. I’d love to see these photos sometime. I bet they’re quite amazing, especially in juxtaposition to what it looks like today. I hope you get the chance to come back to Korea sometime in the future and experience it all again.

  4. April 14, 2015
    Reply

    Hi there.

    What a fun post.

    I’m heading out to Gat Bawi this afternoon. Thanks for the inspiration.

    Steve

    • April 15, 2015
      Reply

      Hey there Steve! Thanks so much for reading :). Oh you will love it! Have so much fun. (Despite the never ending stairs!)

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